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JEWELLERY

Quatre to the chase: An icon turns 20

French luxury jeweller Boucheron’s revolutionary design combines innovation, imagination and artistry

Corinne Kerk
Published Thu, Apr 18, 2024 · 06:45 PM

IN THE WORLD OF JEWELLERY, there are trailblazers who establish themselves with ground-breaking, remarkable creations that endure, and there are those that wish they did.

Without doubt, Boucheron belongs firmly to the former category.

The iconic Quatre celebrates its 20th anniversary this year. PHOTO: BOUCHERON

Founded in 1858, the French luxury jeweller has a reputation for innovation and creativity, with founder Frederic Boucheron himself winning prizes at international exhibitions. He also invented the revolutionary claspless question-mark necklace in 1879.

Indeed, the maison’s body of work is vast, but one of its most significant is the iconic Quatre collection, which celebrates its 20th anniversary this year.

Quatre started with a very contemporary, graphic ring, such as these worn by Chinese actress Zhou Dongyu. PHOTO: BOUCHERON

Bold, confident and expressive in design, Quatre was birthed in 2004 when four distinct codes from the house’s archives were brought together to form a very contemporary, graphic ring.

Codes that started it all

It took some daring – and a lot of imagination – for four codes that are seemingly at odds with each other to form the basis for a genderless, four-band design that is Quatre.

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Inspired by architecture, the Double Godron first appeared in the maison’s creations in the 1860s. Comprising raised bands reminiscent of fluting, two rings are melded into one to symbolise an eternal love that binds two beings.

The second motif is the Clou de Paris, the facets of which draw light to the ring and recall the cobblestones of Paris and Place Vendome in particular. Appearing since 1911 in the maison’s design repertoire, it pays homage to Boucheron’s original address at 26 Place Vendome, where it became the first of the great contemporary jewellers to open a boutique in Paris’ famed square.

Saudi actress Mila Al Zahrani models Boucheron bracelets.  PHOTO: BOUCHERON

A row of diamonds is the third code. A great jewellery classic employed by Boucheron since 1892, it ingeniously works exceptional stones into a delicate mirror setting. This row of precious stones signifies eternity, echoing the everlasting hardness of diamond.

Finally, a Grosgrain motif – originally a ribbed silk fabric used to make ribbons – completes the Quatre ring. In Boucheron’s archives since the 1860s, the code’s origin can be traced to Frederic Boucheron’s father, who was a draper, and recalls the couture heritage that helped make the maison’s name.

Craftsmanship that’s peerless

Given its strong DNA, it didn’t take long for Quatre to be embraced, with wearers drawn not only to its compelling design but also its meticulous craftsmanship.

Innovative jewellery naturally requires a harmonious marriage of traditional savoir-faire and cutting-edge technology. These come together with meticulous attention to detail in Quatre, whose four completely distinct bands are individually fashioned and then assembled into an iconic whole.

Television presenter, fashion designer and ex-model Alexa Chung with Quatre Classique necklaces. PHOTO: BOUCHERON

From initial composition of the alloys to final assembly, every step is precisely executed to within the nearest nanometre, as even the most minute discrepancy could jeopardise the end result. Using a press, without either glue or solder, the four bands are joined by hand with a soft click signalling that the piece is perfect.

And of course, the Quatre collection is known for pushing boundaries with revolutionary materials such as the application of Physical Vapor Deposition, a process that fixes the surface colour by evaporation to give a brilliant shine; and the use of Hyceram®, a hybrid ceramic and elastomer compound that guarantees a mirror polish and high durability.

Style that endures

As Helene Poulit-Duquesne, chief executive officer of Boucheron, points out, one can’t create an icon. Instead, icons are wrought over time and gain their status only because they strike a chord with people.

“It’s the clients who decide,” she states.

And they have spoken loud and clear. Over the passing years, Quatre has proven itself to be a worthy symbol that transcends fashion to be different yet classic, while being unique and multidimensional.

Starting from a ring, there are now earrings, bracelets, necklaces and even hair ornaments in diverse materials and colours in the collection. Quatre offers an infinite palette for devising one’s style, with pieces designed to be worn alone, or stacked in boundless combinations.

There are now earrings, bracelets, necklaces and even hair ornaments in the Quatre collection. PHOTO: BOUCHERON

This year, as Quatre marks its 20th anniversary, the collection welcomes new items – both supple and rigid – including XXL chokers, ultra-precious ring designs and even a stunning belt, to extend its universe across all shapes and sizes.

The hero design is a Quatre ribbon deployed across seven different pieces – two necklaces, a belt, three bracelets and a hair jewel. One statement collar necklace, for instance, is made up of some 50 Quatre rings, while an artistic Quatre bracelet set pays tribute to Boucheron’s drapery origins. The latter comprises 12 bracelets – two cuff bracelets and 10 bangles – assembled into the shape of a spool. They can be worn together as a bold cuff or separately for any occasion.

South Korean actress Han So-hee wears the Quatre Classique bracelet set. PHOTO: BOUCHERON

A symbol of strength and protection, the Quatre collection speaks to those who embody a certain strength of character that enables them to lead rather than command, inspire rather than demand, and protect rather than challenge.

Question is: are you Quatre out for it?

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