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Piaget: (Left) Altiplano Infinitely Personal. (Right) Polo.

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Lange & Söhne: Tourbograph Perpetual Honeygold

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Lange & Söhne: (Left) 1815 Rattrapante Honeygold. (Right) 1815 Thin Honeygold

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Panerai: (Clockwise from right) Submersible Azzurro 42MM (PAM1209), Luminor Luna Rossa GMT 42mm (PAM1096), Submersible Goldtech OroCarbo 44mm (PAM1070)

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Vacheron Constantin.
Watches

Shanghai surprise

Colours, especially gold, made a splash at the Mainland China edition of Watches & Wonders held in Shanghai earlier this month.
25/09/2020 - 05:50

01 Piaget

It's hard to put a fi nger on the shape of the Piaget Polo watch – it's not what you'll consider squarish and neither is it exactly round. But that's precisely what makes the piece so versatile and gives it a sporty chic image. Interestingly, it's also the fi rst watch that Piaget ever gave a name to back in 1979; and over the years, its design has evolved to its current instantly recognisable cushion shape. For its Shanghai date, the Polo has been given a makeover with a green PVD dial and a steel bracelet. Production is limited to a very auspicious 888 pieces.

Piaget also introduced its Infi nitely Personal concept to the Altiplano collection; and the personalisation programme will allow customers to create their own bespoke Altiplano Tourbillon by choosing the case size (38mm or 41mm), type of case, dial, tourbillon ring, strap and buckle. Colour options for the dial alone include sunburst mother-of-pearl in blue, pink, red; or white, hand guilloché gold dials covered with translucent blue, green, teal or red Grand Feu enamel. If that isn't enough, you can also opt for a sunburst lacquer dial which Piaget can match to any colour from a personal photograph.


02 Lange & Söhne

The Homage to F A Lange collection features three new watches that pay tribute to the mastery and craft of the Manufacture's founder Ferdinand Adolph Lange. All come decked out in Lange's famed honey gold cases that have twice the hardness of 18-carat gold. Since 2010, only a select number of watches come in that shade so when the brand breaks it out, you know it's a special occasion.

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The fi rst of the three models is the 1815 Thin Honeygold, a minimalist two-hand watch that is eff ortlessly timeless and elegant. At just 38mm in diameter, it's dressy and doesn't look too big; and will fi t nicely under a shirt sleeve because it's just 6.3mm thin. From the front, the enamel dial looks clean and features just the design trademarks of the 1815 with its railway track design and Arabic numerals. But fl ip it around and you'll fi nd an intricately decorated movement that is inspired by pocket watches which Lange built its fame on some 175 years ago – right down to the detailed hand engraving on the balance cock.

Next is the 1815 Rattrapante Honeygold. It's slightly larger at 41.2mm and it's the fi rst time Lange is pairing a honeygold case with a black dial. The contrasting colour combination lends the watch a bit of mystique in terms of design – it's subtle yet hard to take your eyes off it. And if you want to see how the complex chronograph and rattrapante mechanism works, turn the piece around to fi nd the new L101.2 manually wound calibre on display through the sapphire-crystal caseback.

The star of the trio is arguably the Tourbograph Perpetual Honeygold, which boasts fi ve complications in one watch. Two of them – the tourbillon and fusée-and-chain transmission – aims to increase accuracy; while getting the remaining three – the chronograph, rattrapante and perpetual calendar – to work with each other marks another feat in watchmaking. Combined, the complications are a testament to Lange's knack of always pushing the envelope when it comes to their craft and haute horology. In case you're wondering, the dial is not black – it's also honey gold but coated with black rhodium with raised numerals and scales to give it a threedimensional eff ect.


03 Panerai

Innovation in materials takes centrestage in the new pieces unveiled by Panerai. First up, it aims to set a new gold standard – literally – in diving watches with the Submersible Goldtech OroCarbo 44mm (PAM1070). The piece features the use of Goldtech and Carbotech, which are two new materials conceived by Panerai's Laboratorio Di Idee (which translates as "ideas workshop"). The former is a gold alloy with a unique shade that comes from copper enriched with platinum; and is used for the case and crown guard of the watch. Carbotech, which can be found on the bezel, crown and bridge lever, is a composite consisting of overlapping carbon fi bre sheets with alternating orientations. It gives the PAM1070 a classy and distinctive look – regardless if you're rocking it underwater or on dry land.

Another new material introduced by Panerai is Scafotech, a sustainable composite made from carbon fi bre residue collected from the hull and hydrofoils of the Luna Rossa Team's AC75 yacht. It is recycled and forged into a high-tech polymer that is then used for the watch dial of the new Luminor Luna Rossa GMT 42mm (PAM1096). The timepiece also marks the continued partnership Panerai has forged with the Luna Rossa Team. The latter embarks on its journey to win the 36th America's Cup starting with the Prada Cup Challenger Selection Series – which takes place between next January and February in waters off Auckland.

Also new from Panerai is the Submersible Azzurro 42MM (PAM1209), with its eye-catching blue details that can be found on the bezel and parts of the dial. As the name of the watch implies, it pays tribute to the shade of blue found on the uniform worn by the Italian national sporting teams. The piece is a limited edition of 500 pieces that will retail exclusively online through Panerai's website.


04 Vacheron Constantin

One watch, three looks. Vacheron Constantin delivers on all fronts with a new execution of its signature Overseas self-winding model in pink gold and blue dial. The versatility of the piece comes through with its interchangeable pink gold bracelet, as well as blue alligator leather and blue rubber straps. From the gym in the morning to the boardroom in the afternoon and a nightcap before the day is over, this watch will be your constant wrist companion over the course of your waking hours. All you need to do is swap the band or bracelet and the watch is ready for the new task at hand. Incidentally, the new gold bracelet introduced on this model can also be fi tted on the Overseas dual time and pink gold chronograph models.